A Guide to Old Town Edinburgh

If you hadn’t noticed, we often find ourselves in Edinburgh. We think Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital city is a must see when planning a trip to Scotland (or Europe for that matter!). Not only is it Eve's “spirit city” but it is also a city rich in history and things to do! The great thing about Edinburgh is there are so many amazing parts of the city that have their own unique character yet they all still feel distinctly “Edinburgh”. This will be the first of several travel posts covering different areas of the city.

Today, we will focus on Old Town Edinburgh, where the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle reside. This area of the city is the oldest and has the most tourist traffic however we don’t mind one bit! To offset the number of tourists, you can always plan your visit during an off-season. The off-seasons typically run from September through November and Mid-January through April. Visiting during these times will dramatically lower the cost of your trip and the number of people wandering the streets and at local attractions. We love Edinburgh In January, just after Hogmanay (New Years). The streets are empty and pubs are cozy with their fireplaces lit!

Here are some of our top places to eat, sip, stay, and play in Old Town Edinburgh….

xxx Ivy & Eve

Eat

Civerinos- $$ Known as the Italian street food and pizza slice bar in Edinburgh. They have a casual dining area with shared tables. We always try and stop in here once each visit for a slice or two. In summer months we order their Frosé!

The Witchery- $$$$ Worthy of splurging a little or a lot, The Witchery, is downright magical. Located at the top of the Royal Mile (the same location as the hotel - see Stay section) this restaurant is famous locally and globally. The menu consists of local Scottish fare and an extensive wine list. We have graced this place only a few times but each time has been perfect. TIP- check out their two-course lunch prix fixe menu (£35.50) to save a little money while dining BIG!

Oink- $ Perfect for a quick bite at any of their three locations in Edinburgh (two in Old Town and one in New Town). Order a Piglet, Oink, or Grunter size Scottish hog roast on a roll, add some stuffing, and your choice of sauces and you’ve got yourself the perfect meal or snack to keep you going till dinner time. Eve’s go-to is an Oink with haggis and apple sauce!

Elephant House- $ The sacred location where J.K. Rowling allegedly wrote Harry Potter! Pop in here for a warming cup of tea or coffee before or after strolling through Greyfriars Kirkyard. Grab a window seat at the back for a great view overlooking Greyfriars Kirkyard and the Castle.

Mussel and Steak Bar- $$ Stop in for lunch or dinner to eat your weight in mussels and steak (who would have guessed?!). This place has a relaxed but stylish atmosphere and a good wine list. We recommend getting a pot of mussels in their creamy whiskey bacon broth!

Ikagai Ramen - $ Located just off the Royal Mile on South Bridge near National Museum of Scotland, we love this spot for deliciously filling ramen and tasty cocktails! Depending on how cold it is outside and how much spice you can handle, we go between the tonkotsu and the tantanmen (spicy) ramens. 

Nok’s Kitchen on TheCastle - $$ Hands down of our favorite Thai food restaurants we have ever been to. Nok’s has another location in the Stockbridge area of New Town that’s been on our list to try for years. We stumbled upon their Old Town location right next to the castle and were not disappointed! They have a large menu of traditional Thai dishes. We ordered two different curries to share and they were both amazing!

Makars Gourmet Mash Bar Co. - $$ This restaurant specializes in all things mashed potato! Ivy paid a visit on her last trip and enjoyed their beef haggis with heather honey and turnip puree as well as their slow-cooked beef shoulder with horseradish gravy. Situated just off the Royal Mile, you can have a great view of New Town if seated by the windows. This place is very busy (even in the off-season) so make sure to book a reservation beforehand.

Piemaker - $ Perfect for a grab and go lunch while exploring Old Town, Piemaker’s serves up some of the most delicious hand held savory pies for only a few pounds! Try their traditional Scotch pie and sausage rolls, or if you're feeling a bit adventurous, try their unique macaroni and cheese or haggis pies! Wash it all down with a cold crisp Irn-Bru and you've had a perfect lunch for under a fiver. 

Wings - $ With over 80 sauce options and MASSIVE whole chicken wings, and tasty drink options you can't go wrong with Wings. We love this place for a casual night out or as a quick stop before a Ghost tour or music night at a pub. Found a sauce you can't live without? They have a sister shop, Sauce, around the corner that sells just that! (Here’s the link to Sauce shop).

Hideout Cafe- $ This cafe is a hidden gem right off the Royal Mile near Victoria Street. A very small space that boasts a large collection of vinyl records, cassette tapes, and delicious pastries. We loved the rock-n-roll music playing while we waited for our latte orders.

White Horse Oyster Bar - $$$-$$$$ With their moody bar and sophisticated dining space, White Horse Oyster Bar is one of our go-tos for pre-dinner drinks and happy hour (£2 oysters!) as well as for celebratory dinners. We had the best early Hogmanay evening dinner there a few years back and still dream about our seafood sharing platter! Other standout dishes include their sourdough with seaweed butter, charred octopus, oysters (of course), and hand dived scallops. 

Marys Milkbar- $ The best ice cream in Edinburgh hands down! They make flavors like violet, brown bread, and passionfruit with lemongrass which are ALL to die for! As you exit, make sure to look up to admire their impressive view of Edinburgh Castle!

Ecco Vino Enoteca- $$ We previously shared our love for this cozy wine bar and restaurant when we wrote for This is Edinburgh…you can see the full post HERE. Perfect for a leisurely glass of wine and some tasty seafood-centered dishes. On warmer days sit outside or by the open windows to Cockburn Street (pronounced “COE-BURN”).

Amber - $-$$$ Eve’s friend Gemma from graduate school tipped us onto this restaurant located inside the Scottish Whisky Experience right down from the Castle on the Royal Mile. Normally, we would pass up somewhere like this because it is in such a popular tourist destination but we are SO happy we tried it. They serve classic Scottish dishes and of course lots of whiskies but we found that they do fantastic lunches at budget-conscious prices! Go for their “Scottish Tapas” plate which includes a glass of wine or whisky, any of their sharing platters (great for 2 people), and their soups and sandwiches.

Petit Paris - $$ This cozy restaurant has great lunch and pre-theatre dinner deals and amazing creme brulee. We also love their wines by the glass and very affordable French wines by the bottle! Go here for a casual authentic french meal.

The Milkman- $ This specialty coffee shop is a perfect place to start your day. With bench window seating it’s also a great place to people-watch!

Whiski Rooms - $$ Serving up classic locally sourced Scottish food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Whiski Rooms is a cozy place to enjoy some traditional Scottish dishes, with an elevated flair. We love the warmly lit ambiance and the big windows onto the street for some evening people-watching. They serve up some of our favorite haggis in Edinburgh and their Scottish smoked salmon appetizer (served three ways) is delicious. They also have hundreds of whiskies to sample!

The White Hart Inn- $ Located in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket, this pub is perfect for those seeking traditional Scottish fare and some not-so-traditional menu items. One of the oldest pubs in Edinburgh and home to more than a few eerie stories of the city’s dark past.

SIP

The Halfway House- $ Looking for a traditional pub meal in one of the smallest pubs in Edinburgh? Look no further than The Halfway House! Located in the Fleshmarket Close between Market Street and Waverly Station entrance. It’s the perfect place to enjoy real ale while enjoying the atmosphere of locals, tourists, and people waiting for their train.

The Ensign Ewart- $ Need a break from the busy Royal Mile and maybe a place to warm up? The Ensign Ewart is the perfect place to go. Located on the Royal Mile just yards below the castle gates this pub is not to be missed. We frequent this pub in the evenings to enjoy their live local musicians (Our favorite band to listen to is The Gorms). With four Scottish cask ales, a large whiskey list, and hearty pub food you can’t go wrong. If you visit for lunch they also have a great lunch special: any sandwich and their soup of the day for £12.

The Jolly Judge- $ Another favorite of ours. Perfect for an afternoon drink or make it a late nighter. Tucked away right off the Royal Mile is this charming pub. Enjoy their nice warm fire which burns at most hours and a cool replica ceiling of the historic building, Gladstones Land, nearby. Ivy likes their selection of ciders and real ales while Eve always orders the “malt of the month” or a “tour is Scotland” whiskey flight. In warm(ish) weather, sit outside on the picnic benches and enjoy a pint or two!

Stay

The Witchery by the Castle- $$$$ Located on Castlehill at the top of the Royal Mile. This hotel was described as one of the seven wonders of the hotel world by Cosmopolitan. Each room is different and drowning in indulgence. This place is on our bucket list of hotels to stay at. For now, we can dream!

The Grassmarket Hotel- $$ Comfortable with touches of quirky Scottish decor, this hotel is at the bottom of Victoria Street at the corner of Grassmarket which means it is in the ideal place for exploring! Seriously, they’ll even make you a packed lunch to take with you on our day's adventure!

Fraser Suites- $$$ Quiet and comfortable and just off the Royal Mile. This hotel is perfect for anyone who wants a comfortable yet stylish place to decompress after a long day walking the streets of Edinburgh.

Apex City Hotel / Apex Grassmarket Hotel - $-$$ We recently stayed at this hotel while visiting Edinburgh. The hotel was a great location for walking around the city and had modern amenities. There are two Apex hotels only a few steps away from each other both in Grassmarket. The main difference between the two is that the Apex City Hotel location has smaller rooms with castle views and the Apex Grassmarket Hotel has larger rooms with castle views (some with private patios) and it has a pool (crazy for Edinburgh) and a sauna area. You can still use the pool and sauna facility if you book at the City hotel. In slow months like January, the price per night can be as low as $60! We will definitely be staying here again.

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The Royal Mile- (Free) The Royal Mile is actually a series of streets that run from Edinburgh Castle at the top of the hill all the way to Holyrood Palace at the bottom. The Mile is chock full of “tartan tat” tourist shops as well as great restaurants, boutiques, and historic points of interest.

Edinburgh Castle-$$ Definitely worth the money, Edinburgh Castle grounds hold several restaurants, a whiskey shop, and SO MUCH HISTORY! Our favorite spots are the Dog Cemetery and St Margaret’s Chapel. TIP: Book your tickets ahead to skip the long lines.

View of castle lit up at night

Dog cemetery found within the castle walls

National Museum of Scotland- (Free, $ for special exhibition tickets) One of our all time favorite museums. Spend your time in the Scottish History and Archaeology galleries for some pretty spectacular stuff or head to the Art of Living gallery to see what Eve worked on during her internship in grad school! TIP: Head to the roof for spectacular views of Edinburgh Castle and surrounding areas.

A great view from the roof of the museum!

Victoria Street- This colorful street is home to some of our favorite shops. Including Walker Slater for traditional Scottish wear, I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger for the best cheeses around, Oink, and Museum Context which is a Harry Potter themed shop.

Greyfriars Bobby monument & Greyfriars Kirkyard- (Free) Wander over to Candlemaker Row to see the famous Bobby monument before heading into the Kirkyard. Burials in the Kirkyard have been taking place here since the late 16th century and if you look, you might see some familiar Harry Potter names! Worth a visit if only to see a unique view of the Castle.

Mercat Tours- $ If you enjoy going on ghost tours, Edinburgh is the city for you! We have been on almost every ghost tour available in Edinburgh and we like Mercat ghost tours the best. We have gone on EVERY single one they offer! Our favorite tour is the Evening of Ghost and Ghouls tour. We love this one because it’s super creepy but if you make it out alive (hehe) you get to enjoy a drink in their cozy candle-lit cellar.

The Real Mary King’s Close- $$ If you aren’t one for straight-up frightening but want a bit of creepy history, we suggest this tour for you! They also have a café and fun gift shop to peruse before and after your tour. Splurge on the photo-op picture for a fun souvenir (see ours below).

Ivy trying to look like a ghost during the tour

The Scotch Whisky Experience- $$ Planning on enjoying some of Scotland’s finest whiskey while in Edinburgh? Learn all about Scotland’s whiskey-making history here! Part educational experience, part Disney-esque amusement ride, the “tour” begins when you step into your own whiskey barrel and ride (yes, ride) through the production of whiskey. Afterward, you step into their seminar room and are led through the basics of whiskey aromas and production regions. At the end of the tour, you are led into their whiskey collection room (photo below) and enjoy a dram while admiring the collection of rare and old whiskeys. Afterward, sample a few more drams at the bar or grab a bite to eat at Amber (see our Eat section).

Saint Giles’ Cathedral- (Free with suggested donation) St. Giles’ is one of our favorite places to take a breather from the hustle and bustle of the Royal Mile. Founded over 900 years ago, this church was also the center of the Scottish Reformation. Take a guided tour or just discover it at your own pace. The Thistle Chapel is particularly stunning and looks out for the carving of an angel playing the bagpipes! They also have a small affordable cafe and little gift shop for unique souvenirs.

For more places to eat sip stay and play in Edinburgh check out our wine lover’s guide and guide to New Town Edinburgh posts!

A Guide to New Town Edinburgh

A few months ago, we shared our guide to Old Town Edinburgh. Today, we’re focusing on New Town Edinburgh. This area of the city was designed and built in the late 1700s to keep the wealthy from leaving Edinburgh, who were sick of the tight quarters and poor living conditions that were found in Old Town. New Town was designed to have wide streets and sidewalks, many small parks, and an organized layout compared to the many wynds (pronounced wine-d) and closes (tiny courtyards) in Old Town. We love heading down the hill from Old Town to spend countless hours shopping, perusing the many museums, and sipping cocktails from some of the most imaginative bar menus we have seen!

Here are some of our top places to eat, sip, stay, and play in New Town Edinburgh…

xxx Ivy & Eve

TIP: Check out all of our top New Town picks on our shared Google Map HERE!

Eat

Urban Angel- $$ We discovered this gem back in 2014 on our first trip to Edinburgh as adults. Urban Angel specializes in seasonal, Scottish flavors and is our ABSOLUTE favorite place for breakfast in the whole city. The front has a coffee and bakery counter if you just need a quick pick-me-up or to grab a warm drink while you wait to be seated (it gets busy so you might have to wait a few minutes). Some of our favorite items on the menu are the french toast, baked eggs, and the hot chocolate (seriously good). 

Cafe Royal- $-$$$ As Scotland’s oldest oyster bar (opened in 1863), this historic bar and restaurant hidden just behind Princes Street is a must for fresh oysters, traditional Cullen Skink (smoked haddock soup) and a bottle of our favorite bubbly, Lanson. The decor is all original Victorian with a large circular bar, dark wood, stained glass, and Royal Doulton ceramic tiles of Scottish inventors. Perfect for a quick pint or a leisurely lunch.

La P’tite Folie and Le Di-Vin- $$ Don’t be fooled by the Tudor style exterior. La P’tite Folie is perfect for some seriously tasty French food in a comfortable, stylish setting. Check out Le Di-Vin next door which is an amazing wine bar featuring french wines and small bites. On one of Edinburgh’s sunny days, be sure to sit out on the terrace. It’s a perfect place for sipping wine, and people watching.

Wellington Coffee- $ Located on George Street, one of the main shopping streets, we usually head here for a cup of coffee and a sweet treat to keep us going. They also have great cheese scones, served with a big pat of tasty Scottish butter. 

Ben’s Cookies- $ A UK cookie favorite, this tiny shop on Princes Street is one of our guilty pleasures. We find ourselves making excuses to walk past several times on our trip to buy any flavor that has just been taken out of the oven!

Yo! Sushi- $ We swear we don’t just go to chain restaurants, but Eve went to grad school in the UK and and was on a serious budget, so we have developed a few cheap eat favorites we have to go to when we are in the UK. YO! Sushi is one of them. Come to this location on Princes Street for an awesome view of the Castle and some quick and cheap food. Who doesn’t love conveyor belt sushi?! It’s so fun!!

The Ivy On The Square- $$$ Looking for a nice place for afternoon tea? Look no further than The Ivy On The Square. This Instagram-worthy British brasserie has one of the best Afternoon Tea menus in New Town.

Cafe St. Honore- $$-$$$ This classic French bistro was first introduced to us in one of our favorite book series set in Edinburgh, 44 Scotland Street by Alexander McCall Smith. The atmosphere is super cozy and “French” while focusing on using local and sustainable Scottish ingredients. Order from one of their prix fixe menus for an affordable indulgence.

New Town Fox - $$ Located on a pretty corner of New Town, surrounded by art galleries and antique shops, this bright and cosy spot has one of the best Full Scottish breakfasts we have had in Edinburgh. We love the cheery mix of locals and visitors sipping teas and coffees and fueling up for the day ahead. They have great lunch and cocktails too!

Hope Izakaya - $$ Located on the west edge of New Town, this beautifully decorated restaurant serves up delicious authentic yakitori (Japanese BBQ skewers), sake, and more! We loved sipping our sake cocktails, trying lots of skewers and people watching from their floor to ceiling windows. Great for lunch or dinner and has some seriously tasty veggie/vegan options! 

Fisher’s in the City - $$ located on the slightly quieter Thistle Street, this elegant yet casual restaurant serves hyper fresh and delicious Scottish seafood. We think the bar is the best place for a glass or two of bubbly and a cosy meal for two.

The Palmerston - $$ Technically not in New Town but a few blocks into the West End, The Palmerston is one of those special places that you can’t stop thinking about. This corner building converted bank has a casual elegance to it, coupled with a tasty wine list, super seasonal and local ingredients makes each meal memorable. Eve still dreams of the duck liver parfait with pickled plum starter. In the mornings, they serve coffees and to-die-for pastries made in-house. 

Sip

Veeno- $$ If you find yourself wandering down Rose Street and need to warm up, head into Veeno to enjoy a flight of wine and a bite to eat. Veeno is special because they pour their own Sicilian wines and authentic Italian spuntini (nibbles).

Panda & Sons- $$ Disguised as a barber shop in a mostly residential area of New Town, Panda & Sons has long been our favorite cocktail bar in Edinburgh. The bartenders really know their stuff and will whip you up a tasty cocktail on or off the menu that you will be sure to enjoy!

Cumberland Bar- $ Another location we we first introduced to though the 44 Scotland Street book series. We love the Cumberland Bar for its casual and authentic atmosphere. It isn’t trying to be anything extraordinary and that is exactly why it is extraordinary! Find a cozy corner and settle down for some tasty pub fare and a pint of two. In the summer, they have a nice outdoor beer garden.

Black Cat- $ This classic independently owned pub on Rose Street is a gem hidden in plain sight. Stop by for a dram or a bite to eat while shopping or check out one of their live music sessions as well known trivia nights!

Edinburgh Gin Distillery- $-$$$ Take a break from whisky and tour Edinburgh’s own gin distillery! After the tour, enjoy a gin and tonic or two in the intimate lounge. We love their gin liqueur in fancy flavors such as rhubarb and ginger!

Hoot the Redeemer- $-$$ Another hidden bar, you must pass the arcade fortune teller on your way into the basement bar. Enjoy your alcohol in the form of a slushy, ice cream, or play the claw machine to pick your drink! This place is really a playground for fun-loving adults.

Whighams Wine Cellar - $-$$ Located in the cellar of a traditional New Town townhouse, Whighams is one of our favorite spots to catch our breath between activities, grab a drink before dinner, or have one last nightcap before bed. Sit at the lovely large bar and people watch or sneak away to one of their converted wine cellar snugs for a more intimate experience. They have an extensive wine list with about ½ of their wines available by the glass. Their bar bites are also worth exploring if you have the time or appetite. 

Stay

Angels Share Hotel - $$ Located just off the west end of Princes Street, this 31-room boutique hotel is perfectly situated for both New Town and Old Town adventures! Each room is named and decorated after an iconic Scot. We love the added touches like complimentary bottled water, teas and coffees, Tunnock’s teacakes (Eve’s favorite) and a mini fridge (uncommon in Edinburgh hotels). They also have a great connected bar and restaurant. 

The George Hotel- $$ A classic Edinburgh hotel, The George has been welcoming guests since 1881. Here you will enjoy exceptional service, comfortable rooms, and a great bar and restaurant.

Nira Caledonia- $$$ Located on a quiet residential street this boutique hotel is really something special. You will be welcomed by staff as if you have just returned home. Head up to your room with wonderful views north and a waterfall shower before enjoying a perfectly crafted Scottish gin and tonic in the cozy lounge.

Motel One- $ ($90/night) Tucked just behind the east end of Princes Street, this sleek budget hotel has great views over Waverly Station towards Edinburgh Castle. They might not have in-room phones but they do have incredibly fast WiFi, smart TVs, and some of the fluffiest comforters.

Airbnb- $-$$$ There are so many great options In Edinburgh on Airbnb. We tend to be hotel people but sometimes it is nice it is to be able to cook breakfast and do a load of laundry!

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Scottish National Portrait Gallery- Take a wander inside this sandstone palace filled with wonderful artworks. A few of our favorites are the death masks in the Victorian Library and the paintings of sporting scenes in the main galleries.

The Georgian House- One of two National Trust for Scotland’s historic homes in Edinburgh, the Georgian House gives its visitors a look into how Edinburgh’s wealthy residents would have lived in the late 1700’s when New town was, well, new!

The Johnnie Walker Experience- $-$$$ This new-ish whisky experience is perfect for whisky lovers and newbies alike. Take the “Journey of Flavor” experience to learn the history of Johnnie Walker and try several whiskeys and whisky cocktails along the way. We loved the interactive approach to this “tour” and how they really bring you out of what you “think” you know about whisky and encourage you to try new flavors you may not have expected to love! Afterwards you can head to the gift shop or check out the rooftop bar and restaurant. We are hoping to buy tickets to their rooftop Hogmanay celebration one year as they have unparalleled views of the Castle and midnight fireworks!

St Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral - (Free, donations accepted) Technically a few blocks west of New Town, this massive three-spired Victorian Gothic revival cathedral is worth the visit. Be sure to check their website for upcoming events. Eve has been to a candlelit concert here (complete with champagne) and it was beyond magical. End the evening at The Palmerston restaurant we mention in this post for a perfect evening out on the West End. 

Princes Street- On one side of the street is the beautiful and expansive Princes Street Garden and the other side is the main shopping drag. Here you will find all the high street shops like TopShop, New Look, H&M, and Primark. Also located here is Marks and Spencers, our favorite store to buy groceries. It’s a bit more pricey than others but the quality is high. Weird, but we always stock up on their rose scented tissues when we are in the UK. They also have amazing grab-and-go options. 

Calton Hill- Take a quick “hike” up the hill for some stunning views of Edinburgh. We recommend heading here either early morning or evening to beat some of the crowd.

George Street- Here you will find the best of the best of Edinburgh’s luxury retailers, hotels, and higher end bars and restaurants. Be sure to check out the Scottish Design Exchange for unique Scottish art and souvenirs.

Rose Street- Here you will find great little independent shops mixed in with more familiar stores and LOTS of places to stop for a bite to eat or drink when you need a break . Veeno and Black Cat Bar (as mentioned in Sip section) are located here as well.