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A Guide to New Town Edinburgh

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A few months ago, we shared our guide to Old Town Edinburgh. Today, we’re focusing on New Town Edinburgh. This area of the city was designed and built in the late 1700s to keep the wealthy from leaving Edinburgh, who were sick of the tight quarters and poor living conditions that were found in Old Town. New Town was designed to have wide streets and sidewalks, many small parks, and an organized layout compared to the many wynds (pronounced wine-d) and closes (tiny courtyards) in Old Town. We love heading down the hill from Old Town to spend countless hours shopping, perusing the many museums, and sipping cocktails from some of the most imaginative bar menus we have seen!

Here are some of our top places to eat, sip, stay, and play in New Town Edinburgh…

xxx Ivy & Eve

TIP: Check out all of our top New Town picks on our shared Google Map HERE!

Eat

Urban Angel- $$ We discovered this gem back in 2014 on our first trip to Edinburgh as adults. Urban Angel specializes in seasonal, Scottish flavors and is our ABSOLUTE favorite place for breakfast in the whole city. The front has a coffee and bakery counter if you just need a quick pick-me-up or to grab a warm drink while you wait to be seated (it gets busy so you might have to wait a few minutes). Some of our favorite items on the menu are the french toast, baked eggs, and the hot chocolate (seriously good). 

Cafe Royal- $-$$$ As Scotland’s oldest oyster bar (opened in 1863), this historic bar and restaurant hidden just behind Princes Street is a must for fresh oysters, traditional Cullen Skink (smoked haddock soup) and a bottle of our favorite bubbly, Lanson. The decor is all original Victorian with a large circular bar, dark wood, stained glass, and Royal Doulton ceramic tiles of Scottish inventors. Perfect for a quick pint or a leisurely lunch.

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La P’tite Folie and Le Di-Vin- $$ Don’t be fooled by the Tudor style exterior. La P’tite Folie is perfect for some seriously tasty French food in a comfortable, stylish setting. Check out Le Di-Vin next door which is an amazing wine bar featuring french wines and small bites. On one of Edinburgh’s sunny days, be sure to sit out on the terrace. It’s a perfect place for sipping wine, and people watching.

Wellington Coffee- $ Located on George Street, one of the main shopping streets, we usually head here for a cup of coffee and a sweet treat to keep us going. They also have great cheese scones, served with a big pat of tasty Scottish butter. 

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Ben’s Cookies- $ A UK cookie favorite, this tiny shop on Princes Street is one of our guilty pleasures. We find ourselves making excuses to walk past several times on our trip to buy any flavor that has just been taken out of the oven!

Yo! Sushi- $ We swear we don’t just go to chain restaurants, but Eve went to grad school in the UK and and was on a serious budget, so we have developed a few cheap eat favorites we have to go to when we are in the UK. YO! Sushi is one of them. Come to this location on Princes Street for an awesome view of the Castle and some quick and cheap food. Who doesn’t love conveyor belt sushi?! It’s so fun!!

The Ivy On The Square- $$$ Looking for a nice place for afternoon tea? Look no further than The Ivy On The Square. This Instagram-worthy British brasserie has one of the best Afternoon Tea menus in New Town.

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Cafe St. Honore- $$-$$$ This classic French bistro was first introduced to us in one of our favorite book series set in Edinburgh, 44 Scotland Street by Alexander McCall Smith. The atmosphere is super cozy and “French” while focusing on using local and sustainable Scottish ingredients. Order from one of their prix fixe menus for an affordable indulgence.

New Town Fox - $$ Located on a pretty corner of New Town, surrounded by art galleries and antique shops, this bright and cosy spot has one of the best Full Scottish breakfasts we have had in Edinburgh. We love the cheery mix of locals and visitors sipping teas and coffees and fueling up for the day ahead. They have great lunch and cocktails too!

Hope Izakaya - $$ Located on the west edge of New Town, this beautifully decorated restaurant serves up delicious authentic yakitori (Japanese BBQ skewers), sake, and more! We loved sipping our sake cocktails, trying lots of skewers and people watching from their floor to ceiling windows. Great for lunch or dinner and has some seriously tasty veggie/vegan options! 

Fisher’s in the City - $$ located on the slightly quieter Thistle Street, this elegant yet casual restaurant serves hyper fresh and delicious Scottish seafood. We think the bar is the best place for a glass or two of bubbly and a cosy meal for two.

The Palmerston - $$ Technically not in New Town but a few blocks into the West End, The Palmerston is one of those special places that you can’t stop thinking about. This corner building converted bank has a casual elegance to it, coupled with a tasty wine list, super seasonal and local ingredients makes each meal memorable. Eve still dreams of the duck liver parfait with pickled plum starter. In the mornings, they serve coffees and to-die-for pastries made in-house. 

Sip

Veeno- $$ If you find yourself wandering down Rose Street and need to warm up, head into Veeno to enjoy a flight of wine and a bite to eat. Veeno is special because they pour their own Sicilian wines and authentic Italian spuntini (nibbles).

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Panda & Sons- $$ Disguised as a barber shop in a mostly residential area of New Town, Panda & Sons has long been our favorite cocktail bar in Edinburgh. The bartenders really know their stuff and will whip you up a tasty cocktail on or off the menu that you will be sure to enjoy!

Panda and Sons Edinburgh

Cumberland Bar- $ Another location we we first introduced to though the 44 Scotland Street book series. We love the Cumberland Bar for its casual and authentic atmosphere. It isn’t trying to be anything extraordinary and that is exactly why it is extraordinary! Find a cozy corner and settle down for some tasty pub fare and a pint of two. In the summer, they have a nice outdoor beer garden.

Black Cat- $ This classic independently owned pub on Rose Street is a gem hidden in plain sight. Stop by for a dram or a bite to eat while shopping or check out one of their live music sessions as well known trivia nights!

Edinburgh Gin Distillery- $-$$$ Take a break from whisky and tour Edinburgh’s own gin distillery! After the tour, enjoy a gin and tonic or two in the intimate lounge. We love their gin liqueur in fancy flavors such as rhubarb and ginger!

Hoot the Redeemer- $-$$ Another hidden bar, you must pass the arcade fortune teller on your way into the basement bar. Enjoy your alcohol in the form of a slushy, ice cream, or play the claw machine to pick your drink! This place is really a playground for fun-loving adults.

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Whighams Wine Cellar - $-$$ Located in the cellar of a traditional New Town townhouse, Whighams is one of our favorite spots to catch our breath between activities, grab a drink before dinner, or have one last nightcap before bed. Sit at the lovely large bar and people watch or sneak away to one of their converted wine cellar snugs for a more intimate experience. They have an extensive wine list with about ½ of their wines available by the glass. Their bar bites are also worth exploring if you have the time or appetite. 

Stay

Angels Share Hotel - $$ Located just off the west end of Princes Street, this 31-room boutique hotel is perfectly situated for both New Town and Old Town adventures! Each room is named and decorated after an iconic Scot. We love the added touches like complimentary bottled water, teas and coffees, Tunnock’s teacakes (Eve’s favorite) and a mini fridge (uncommon in Edinburgh hotels). They also have a great connected bar and restaurant. 

The George Hotel- $$ A classic Edinburgh hotel, The George has been welcoming guests since 1881. Here you will enjoy exceptional service, comfortable rooms, and a great bar and restaurant.

Nira Caledonia- $$$ Located on a quiet residential street this boutique hotel is really something special. You will be welcomed by staff as if you have just returned home. Head up to your room with wonderful views north and a waterfall shower before enjoying a perfectly crafted Scottish gin and tonic in the cozy lounge.

Motel One- $ ($90/night) Tucked just behind the east end of Princes Street, this sleek budget hotel has great views over Waverly Station towards Edinburgh Castle. They might not have in-room phones but they do have incredibly fast WiFi, smart TVs, and some of the fluffiest comforters.

Airbnb- $-$$$ There are so many great options In Edinburgh on Airbnb. We tend to be hotel people but sometimes it is nice it is to be able to cook breakfast and do a load of laundry!

Play

Scottish National Portrait Gallery- Take a wander inside this sandstone palace filled with wonderful artworks. A few of our favorites are the death masks in the Victorian Library and the paintings of sporting scenes in the main galleries.

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The Georgian House- One of two National Trust for Scotland’s historic homes in Edinburgh, the Georgian House gives its visitors a look into how Edinburgh’s wealthy residents would have lived in the late 1700’s when New town was, well, new!

The Johnnie Walker Experience- $-$$$ This new-ish whisky experience is perfect for whisky lovers and newbies alike. Take the “Journey of Flavor” experience to learn the history of Johnnie Walker and try several whiskeys and whisky cocktails along the way. We loved the interactive approach to this “tour” and how they really bring you out of what you “think” you know about whisky and encourage you to try new flavors you may not have expected to love! Afterwards you can head to the gift shop or check out the rooftop bar and restaurant. We are hoping to buy tickets to their rooftop Hogmanay celebration one year as they have unparalleled views of the Castle and midnight fireworks!

St Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral - (Free, donations accepted) Technically a few blocks west of New Town, this massive three-spired Victorian Gothic revival cathedral is worth the visit. Be sure to check their website for upcoming events. Eve has been to a candlelit concert here (complete with champagne) and it was beyond magical. End the evening at The Palmerston restaurant we mention in this post for a perfect evening out on the West End. 

Princes Street- On one side of the street is the beautiful and expansive Princes Street Garden and the other side is the main shopping drag. Here you will find all the high street shops like TopShop, New Look, H&M, and Primark. Also located here is Marks and Spencers, our favorite store to buy groceries. It’s a bit more pricey than others but the quality is high. Weird, but we always stock up on their rose scented tissues when we are in the UK. They also have amazing grab-and-go options. 

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prince st. gardens

Calton Hill- Take a quick “hike” up the hill for some stunning views of Edinburgh. We recommend heading here either early morning or evening to beat some of the crowd.

George Street- Here you will find the best of the best of Edinburgh’s luxury retailers, hotels, and higher end bars and restaurants. Be sure to check out the Scottish Design Exchange for unique Scottish art and souvenirs.

Rose Street- Here you will find great little independent shops mixed in with more familiar stores and LOTS of places to stop for a bite to eat or drink when you need a break . Veeno and Black Cat Bar (as mentioned in Sip section) are located here as well. 

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Locals Only Guide to Old Monterey, California - Updated 2021

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We were very lucky to have grown up on the beautiful Monterey Bay Peninsula. Raised in Carmel Valley, we spent lots of time in "Old Monterey". These days, we appreciate Old Monterey even more and enjoy the fabulous restaurants and night life it has to offer.

Here are some of our favorite places to eat, drink, stay, and play in Old Monterey. Enjoy!

xxx Ivy & Eve

Eat & Drink:

Jacks Monterey- $$$ Located in the Portola Hotel & Spa this newly renovated restaurant is nothing short of amazing! The Portola Hotel lobby is lined with giant (living) trees which stretch into the restaurant seating area. With lantern like lights hanging from the tree branches, there is a really magical feel to the space. Jack Monterey's menu is full of tasty fresh dishes and creative twists to classics. They also have an excellent selection of local and international wines to enjoy by the glass and/or by the bottle. Their glass selections change frequently so if you are like us and tend to order by the glass (that way you can try several!) you have the opportunity to try something new, or revisit a favorite wine. For starters we recommend the Cast-Iron Skillet Rolls to share with the table. The rolls were SO light and fluffy and paired perfectly with the super creamy artichoke and pecorino sauce they smother the rolls in! You also MUST try the Crab Cakes as well. Probably the best we've had in years! For our entrees, we enjoyed the Diver Scallops Three Ways which was the stand out dish of the night. The scallops are served in a lemon butter sauce (more traditional), salsa verde style (light and fresh), and in a Romenesco sauce (completely decadent). We also tried the Lamb Moussaka - comforting with its mashed potato topping while still tasting fresh with all of the veggies and succulent cubed (not ground) lamb. For dessert we went with the classic Chocolate Lava Cake and coffees to round out the night. Eve had her eyes on their dessert cocktails... so we know we will be back soon!

Overall, we would suggest Jacks Monterey for girls night, dates and other special occasions. We also recommend the lounge and bar as a great place to meet for drinks post-work or just for a date night! It's a 10/10!!!!

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Montrio Bistro- $$ This is a great place for happy hour or a romantic dinner out. With their upbeat and slightly whimsical decor, creative cocktails, and seasonally inspired dishes, everyone is sure to leave Montrio happy, full, and wanting more. They also have two separate rooms for private parties. Eve has planned several parties here in the past and they are always a hit!

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Alvarado Street Brewery- $-$$ This ultra trendy brewery and beer garden is always packed with locals and tourists alike. They make awesome beers in-house (and at their second brewery in Salinas) and serve up great casual dishes created specifically for pairing with beer. We recommend grabbing a brew and ordering their macaroni and cheese, street tacos, and their burgers!

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Pacific Bowls & Rolls- $ A popular place for a quick bite to eat. Pick a bowl from the menu or build your own, there's something for any sushi lover here! Very Insta-worthy!

Yummy! (now in even larger containers!)

Yummy! (now in even larger containers!)

Paris Bakery- $ For a truly authentic French feel, come here for a croissant and a mini bottle of bubbly (served in cute little coupes). We recommend trying their princess cakes too! They also serve their lattes and cafe au lait in bowls for the true French experience!

Parker Lusseau- $ For the delicious coffee and delicious pastries. We recommend trying the custard filled brioche and chicken curry sandwich!

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Ocean Sushi Deli- $ A cosy local sushi bar with quick service and friendly staff. Workdays we often grab a quick lunch but also love to order their sushi platters to go - when we are too lazy to cook at home. 

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Scales Seafood & Steaks- $-$$ There are dozens of restaurants along the wharf to end your hunger for seafood. We usually dine at Scales on the Go, which is Scales Restaurant's sister cafe. Here you can enjoy food to-go or sit down and relax in their small cafe and enjoy their seafood spread. We always get clam chowder in a bread bowl. Yes, we recommend splurging on your calories and carbs here because the bread bowl is so delicious!

Domenicos on the Wharf- $$-$$$ We love Domenicos for their killer happy hour at the bar as well as their more fine dining setting in the back. Order the grilled sardines, and artichoke for apps, and calamari steak for dinner. Ask for a window seat to soak in the beautiful views of the bay!

Sandbar & Grill- $$ This is our go-to for fresh seafood and a locals vibe. Located at sea level on Wharf #2 (the commercial wharf) it is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the old school ambiance and equally enjoyable food. We love their strong cocktails, Crab Louis Salad, and of course, their signature dish - Sand Dabs.

1833- Closed - $$$ We love 1833 for it's history and slightly spooky speakeasy vibe. Named after the year John Stokes, (a fake doctor-who ended up killing 40% of Monterey's population one year!) moved to Monterey and into the adobe house that now holds Restaurant 1833. Their cocktail menu is full of artistically crafted drinks and great wines and beers. With outdoor fire pits and perfectly decorated rooms such as the library room (our favorite) with a cozy fireplace. They also have a great happy hour where you can select a cocktail/beer/wine and a tasty bite for $12. 1833 is a great place to meet friends, share stories, and maybe even see a ghost!

Boardwalk Subs Shop- Closed - $ If you are a sandwich person you must go here. They have so many cold and hot East Coast style sandwich options it is nearly impossible to pick just one. We love the Chicken Parm, Meatball, and the Jersey Italian Sub. Order a side of Old Bay fries to share and wash it down with their fresh brewed iced tea or rotating list of local beers and wines!

Stay:

Although we rarely have a need to stay in hotels in our hometown we have visited all of these hotels below and recommend each one.

Portola Hotel & Spa- Home to the Jacks Monterey restaurant mentioned above this hotel is lovely and features a great location to nearly everything in Old Monterey. We also highly recommend making reservations as their spa, the pool has some of the most gorgeous views of the bay around. A massage + wine + a great view = perfection!

The Monterey Hotel- This hotel is perfect for those looking for a boutique hotel with true character. Featuring Victorian style furnishings that are sure to charm you and within walking distance of everything your heart desires while exploring Old Town Monterey.   

Casa Munras Garden and Hotel- This historic hotel has stayed true to its' past life as a Spanish Hacienda. These days rooms feature Spanish style furnishings with modern luxuries. Another great location.  

Hotel Abrego- Eve has stayed here and completely recommends it! While it is a few blocks away from the excitement of Old Monterey. It is easily walkable to all Old Monterey locations and has free overnight parking which all other hotels we mention do NOT have! The hotel features beautiful rooms with electric fireplaces, a small bar (open pretty late) and breakfast daily.

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Monterey Museum of Art- Did you know Monterey was one of the earliest West Coast artist colonies? For a dose of art and culture, head to the MMA! Their 6 small galleries are brimming with wonderful California art dating from the 1800’s to the present. You will find galleries focused on Early California paintings, Photography (Edward Weston and Ansel Adams were both locals), and contemporary works.

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Golden State Theater- From country music stars, big name comedians, up and coming artists, and old classics- Golden State Theater has something for everyone. Built in 1926, the exotic Moorish style interior makes your visit unforgettable. We recently fulfilled our dreams of seeing the Beach Boys in concert here and it was nothing short of magical!!!

Wale Watching- This is a quintessential Monterey activity!  Monterey Bay is home to some of the most extraordinary wildlife. You will almost always be guaranteed to see dolphins, whales, seals, or otters. Plus, its a great way to see our beautiful coastline from a different perspective. 

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Ghost Tour of Old Monterey- Monterey was California's first capitol city, and that being said there is a LOT of history here. It is so historic that Old Monterey is only second to Williamsburg, VA for having the most historical buildings in America! While on the tour, learn about Old Town Monterey's dark past and spooky secrets!