Travel

Locals Only Guide to Old Monterey, California - Updated 2021

IMG_7935.JPG

We were very lucky to have grown up on the beautiful Monterey Bay Peninsula. Raised in Carmel Valley, we spent lots of time in "Old Monterey". These days, we appreciate Old Monterey even more and enjoy the fabulous restaurants and night life it has to offer.

Here are some of our favorite places to eat, drink, stay, and play in Old Monterey. Enjoy!

xxx Ivy & Eve

Eat & Drink:

Jacks Monterey- $$$ Located in the Portola Hotel & Spa this newly renovated restaurant is nothing short of amazing! The Portola Hotel lobby is lined with giant (living) trees which stretch into the restaurant seating area. With lantern like lights hanging from the tree branches, there is a really magical feel to the space. Jack Monterey's menu is full of tasty fresh dishes and creative twists to classics. They also have an excellent selection of local and international wines to enjoy by the glass and/or by the bottle. Their glass selections change frequently so if you are like us and tend to order by the glass (that way you can try several!) you have the opportunity to try something new, or revisit a favorite wine. For starters we recommend the Cast-Iron Skillet Rolls to share with the table. The rolls were SO light and fluffy and paired perfectly with the super creamy artichoke and pecorino sauce they smother the rolls in! You also MUST try the Crab Cakes as well. Probably the best we've had in years! For our entrees, we enjoyed the Diver Scallops Three Ways which was the stand out dish of the night. The scallops are served in a lemon butter sauce (more traditional), salsa verde style (light and fresh), and in a Romenesco sauce (completely decadent). We also tried the Lamb Moussaka - comforting with its mashed potato topping while still tasting fresh with all of the veggies and succulent cubed (not ground) lamb. For dessert we went with the classic Chocolate Lava Cake and coffees to round out the night. Eve had her eyes on their dessert cocktails... so we know we will be back soon!

Overall, we would suggest Jacks Monterey for girls night, dates and other special occasions. We also recommend the lounge and bar as a great place to meet for drinks post-work or just for a date night! It's a 10/10!!!!

IMG_0106.JPG
IMG_0108.JPG
IMG_0113.JPG
IMG_0110.JPG
IMG_0109.JPG
IMG_0114.JPG
IMG_0116.JPG
IMG_0111.JPG
IMG_0115.JPG

Montrio Bistro- $$ This is a great place for happy hour or a romantic dinner out. With their upbeat and slightly whimsical decor, creative cocktails, and seasonally inspired dishes, everyone is sure to leave Montrio happy, full, and wanting more. They also have two separate rooms for private parties. Eve has planned several parties here in the past and they are always a hit!

IMG_0117.JPG

Alvarado Street Brewery- $-$$ This ultra trendy brewery and beer garden is always packed with locals and tourists alike. They make awesome beers in-house (and at their second brewery in Salinas) and serve up great casual dishes created specifically for pairing with beer. We recommend grabbing a brew and ordering their macaroni and cheese, street tacos, and their burgers!

IMG_0118.JPG

Pacific Bowls & Rolls- $ A popular place for a quick bite to eat. Pick a bowl from the menu or build your own, there's something for any sushi lover here! Very Insta-worthy!

Yummy! (now in even larger containers!)

Yummy! (now in even larger containers!)

Paris Bakery- $ For a truly authentic French feel, come here for a croissant and a mini bottle of bubbly (served in cute little coupes). We recommend trying their princess cakes too! They also serve their lattes and cafe au lait in bowls for the true French experience!

Parker Lusseau- $ For the delicious coffee and delicious pastries. We recommend trying the custard filled brioche and chicken curry sandwich!

IMG_0103.JPG

Ocean Sushi Deli- $ A cosy local sushi bar with quick service and friendly staff. Workdays we often grab a quick lunch but also love to order their sushi platters to go - when we are too lazy to cook at home. 

FullSizeRender (1).jpg

Scales Seafood & Steaks- $-$$ There are dozens of restaurants along the wharf to end your hunger for seafood. We usually dine at Scales on the Go, which is Scales Restaurant's sister cafe. Here you can enjoy food to-go or sit down and relax in their small cafe and enjoy their seafood spread. We always get clam chowder in a bread bowl. Yes, we recommend splurging on your calories and carbs here because the bread bowl is so delicious!

Domenicos on the Wharf- $$-$$$ We love Domenicos for their killer happy hour at the bar as well as their more fine dining setting in the back. Order the grilled sardines, and artichoke for apps, and calamari steak for dinner. Ask for a window seat to soak in the beautiful views of the bay!

Sandbar & Grill- $$ This is our go-to for fresh seafood and a locals vibe. Located at sea level on Wharf #2 (the commercial wharf) it is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the old school ambiance and equally enjoyable food. We love their strong cocktails, Crab Louis Salad, and of course, their signature dish - Sand Dabs.

1833- Closed - $$$ We love 1833 for it's history and slightly spooky speakeasy vibe. Named after the year John Stokes, (a fake doctor-who ended up killing 40% of Monterey's population one year!) moved to Monterey and into the adobe house that now holds Restaurant 1833. Their cocktail menu is full of artistically crafted drinks and great wines and beers. With outdoor fire pits and perfectly decorated rooms such as the library room (our favorite) with a cozy fireplace. They also have a great happy hour where you can select a cocktail/beer/wine and a tasty bite for $12. 1833 is a great place to meet friends, share stories, and maybe even see a ghost!

Boardwalk Subs Shop- Closed - $ If you are a sandwich person you must go here. They have so many cold and hot East Coast style sandwich options it is nearly impossible to pick just one. We love the Chicken Parm, Meatball, and the Jersey Italian Sub. Order a side of Old Bay fries to share and wash it down with their fresh brewed iced tea or rotating list of local beers and wines!

Stay:

Although we rarely have a need to stay in hotels in our hometown we have visited all of these hotels below and recommend each one.

Portola Hotel & Spa- Home to the Jacks Monterey restaurant mentioned above this hotel is lovely and features a great location to nearly everything in Old Monterey. We also highly recommend making reservations as their spa, the pool has some of the most gorgeous views of the bay around. A massage + wine + a great view = perfection!

The Monterey Hotel- This hotel is perfect for those looking for a boutique hotel with true character. Featuring Victorian style furnishings that are sure to charm you and within walking distance of everything your heart desires while exploring Old Town Monterey.   

Casa Munras Garden and Hotel- This historic hotel has stayed true to its' past life as a Spanish Hacienda. These days rooms feature Spanish style furnishings with modern luxuries. Another great location.  

Hotel Abrego- Eve has stayed here and completely recommends it! While it is a few blocks away from the excitement of Old Monterey. It is easily walkable to all Old Monterey locations and has free overnight parking which all other hotels we mention do NOT have! The hotel features beautiful rooms with electric fireplaces, a small bar (open pretty late) and breakfast daily.

Play:

Monterey Museum of Art- Did you know Monterey was one of the earliest West Coast artist colonies? For a dose of art and culture, head to the MMA! Their 6 small galleries are brimming with wonderful California art dating from the 1800’s to the present. You will find galleries focused on Early California paintings, Photography (Edward Weston and Ansel Adams were both locals), and contemporary works.

IMG_0482.JPG

Golden State Theater- From country music stars, big name comedians, up and coming artists, and old classics- Golden State Theater has something for everyone. Built in 1926, the exotic Moorish style interior makes your visit unforgettable. We recently fulfilled our dreams of seeing the Beach Boys in concert here and it was nothing short of magical!!!

Wale Watching- This is a quintessential Monterey activity!  Monterey Bay is home to some of the most extraordinary wildlife. You will almost always be guaranteed to see dolphins, whales, seals, or otters. Plus, its a great way to see our beautiful coastline from a different perspective. 

DSC04559.JPG

Ghost Tour of Old Monterey- Monterey was California's first capitol city, and that being said there is a LOT of history here. It is so historic that Old Monterey is only second to Williamsburg, VA for having the most historical buildings in America! While on the tour, learn about Old Town Monterey's dark past and spooky secrets!

24 hours in Napa, CA

IMG_0028.JPG

During the week, Eve works as a curator at an art museum. One of the perks of the job is that she is sometimes asked to visit artists' studios and select art for donation or exhibition. A few months ago, Eve was asked to visit an amazing California landscape painter, Jack Stuppin, up north and we decided to make a quick trip out of it!

We arrived in Napa around noon and went straight to Clif Family Winery. We only recently discovered this Napa winery and had to stop in to say hi and try their food and wine pairing. Created by the founders Gary and Kit of Clif Bars, Clif Family Winery is full of fun history, great food, and of course great wine. The winery was created after Gary and Kit's cycling adventures in Italy. Their adventures included cycling, leisurely Italian meals with wine, and great food and hospitality and sparked the idea to create their own wines from their property on top of Howell Mountain. Now they grow grapes for their delicious wines and organic veggies for their Bruschetteria food truck.

We tasted through their wines each paired with a little bite to eat fresh from the food truck out front. The wines were delicious and the food pairings were perfect. Troy and Tom, who were our servers, made sure we had an awesome time. We were first served some wines that were not included in our Bruschetteria Trio, the 2016 Rosé of Grenache, 2016 Rte. Blanc Sauvignon Blanc, 2014 Bici "MRV" White Blend, and the 2015 Mendocino Grenache.

For the Bruschetteria Trio which started with a seasonal Arancini that was super tasty. The first wine pairing for the flight was the 2015 Oak Knoll Chardonnay which was paired with Porchetta Bruschetta (pronounced "Pork-etta" with pork, herbs, red onion, aioli, and parmesan. Next was the delightful 2013 Gary's Improv Howell Mountain Zin. This yummy wine was paired with their Pimento Bruschetta which included roasted beet pimento spread, goat cheese, and Clif Family Kitchen smoked paprika almonds. The last wine on our flight was the 2013 Kit's Killer Howell Mountain Cab, this heavy and scrumptious red was paired with their Funghi Bruschetta which featured local mushrooms, fontina, and chives.

Lastly Troy brought us a delicious chocolate and red wine reduction "pudding" with Zinfandel salt sprinkled on top and a small bowl of chocolate covered caramels and cherries. Just thinking about them makes our mouths start watering! Our favorite wines were, of course, the rosé and the 2015 Mendocino Grenache (which Troy told us we should try chilled 20-30 min). We ended up leaving with a few different bottles and later tried the Grenache chilled back home and it was quite refreshing!

IMG_0027.JPG
IMG_0041.JPG

After satisfying our palates and stomachs, we headed down the road to Napa Soap Company. We loved this cute shop and its lovely smelling soaps all made right in-house. We picked up a few of their bath "teas", soaps, and some shaving bars for the boys. They have the most amazing array of scents to suit everyone! 

IMG_0043.JPG
IMG_0032.JPG

After doing a little shopping, we drove to Domaine Chandon where Ivy is a wine club member (YAY!) and we took full advantage of the benefits seeing as we rarely ever make it up to Napa. We sipped through the bubbly wine tasting flight which was delicious and nibbled on some truffle popcorn, and cheese plate. The Chandon tasting room is surrounded by green lawns perfect for picnicking, patio seating, a restaurant, and lawn chairs to admire the Napa Valley vineyard views. This is definitely a beautiful place to sit back and relax some bubbly wines while in Napa. 

IMG_0029.JPG
IMG_0040.JPG
IMG_0031.JPG
IMG_0030.JPG
IMG_0042.JPG

After our leisurely bubbly flight, we headed to our hotel to check in. Since the trip was last minute we picked one of the cheapest we could find- Ivy Hotel. It was under renovation, which we were unaware of and it was much farther away from everything than we expected. This wouldn't be a hotel we would normally stay at but it was clean and comfortable for the price.

Once we settled in we headed to the sushi restaurant, Eiko's near the Napa water-front for drinks and dinner. This sushi place was über cool, and the menu was very creative. We're totally trying out the sushi tacos and pizza next time we come! Lexie ordered a bunch of tasty rolls and the blackened edamame which was really yummy! Ivy also got a MASSIVE glass of champagne and Eve tried out their extensive sake menu. You can order sake by the glass (2oz), carafe (10oz), or bottle. Eve loved that you could order glasses because that means you can try a few!

IMG_0039.JPG
IMG_0035.JPG
IMG_0033.JPG
IMG_0034.JPG
IMG_0037.JPG
IMG_0038.JPG

The next morning we only had time to grab a bite to eat for breakfast at the Long Meadow Ranch. The only thing open when we got there was the Cafe which had nice blankets to bundle up in since it was a chilly morning and heater lamps were turned on. The coffee was delicious and so were our pastries! On the grounds, there is the main restaurant, the General Store, a tasting room, and an outdoor area where you can hangout on the grass or sit at the picnic tables and listen to live music. We definitely want to come back here for lunch or dinner. 

xxx Ivy & Eve

Photo credit: Long Meadow Ranch

Photo credit: Long Meadow Ranch